An island of fishers. A former Yugoslav military base. A famous Hollywood film set. And home to one of the best beaches in Europe. Even these accolades hardly scratch the surface of what Vis has to uncover as one of Croatia’s most exciting islands.
History
Vis is the farthest inhabited island off the Croatian mainland and neighbors Korčula to the east, and is surrounded by an archipelago of smaller islands, like Biševo (famous for the Blue Cave), and Palagruža. It’s also only 60 miles away from the Italian coast!
Life on Vis dates back to prehistory, thanks to its mild climate, fertile land, and sea abundant in fish. The old pre-Indo-European Mediterranean culture was replaced by the Illyrians, evidenced by numerous ritual or burial mounds on the island. In the 4th century BC, the Syracusan Greeks, under the leadership of Dionysius, founded Issa, which makes Vis town one of the oldest in Croatia and on the eastern Adriatic! The island was ruled by Liburnians in the 1st century before the Republic of Venice arrived in 1797, leaving its mark thanks to the settlements and architecture it developed around the island.
After a short stint by Napoleon, Vis was ruled by the Austrian Empire from 1814. Italians took over at the end of World War 1 before it became part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Vis was the general headquarters of Marshal Josip Broz Tito and the Yugoslav army during World War II. The island remained one of the main bases for the Yugoslav army until 1988, entirely closed off to foreign visitors. As a result, the number of inhabitants also halved. After Croatia gained independence and the Yugoslav army left in the early 1990s, tourism on the island finally began - with the vibrant military history an integral part of what makes Vis so unique.
Vis has remained urbanistically unspoiled, architecturally authentic, and ecologically pristine through it all. Along with the long-standing traditions of fishing and agriculture, tourism is only now gaining momentum on Vis.
Towns
Vis: Located in the north-eastern part of the island is Vis town. Initially settled by the Greeks as ‘Issa’, Vis town today is the ‘capital’ of the island. Situated in a well-protected bay, Vis is increasingly popular among boaters, as baroque buildings, Roman baths, a Franciscan monastery, defensive towers, an archeological museum, and palaces decorate the old town and shore.
Komiža: This famous fishing village has transformed in recent years thanks to tourism and its proximity to the Blue Cave (more on that below). With roots dating back to at least the 12th century, Komiža is recognizable thanks to its hilltop Romanesque church and monastery dedicated to St. Nicholas, the patron saint of sailors and merchants, among other things. The center of the town is marked by a castle erected in 1585 to defend against pirates, while colorful windows decorate old stone houses, vibrant cafes, and local restaurants.
Biševo & Blue Cave: Biševo is a tiny islet located 5 nautical miles from Komiža, and while there isn't much to do here for you or its 15 residents, it is home to one of Dalmatia's most popular tourist attractions - the Blue Cave. Authorized boats can take you into the colorful cave, which is illuminated at certain times of the day when the sun peeks through its crack. The best (and busiest) time to visit is between 11-1 pm, but if you’re not a fan of long queues, the morning hours can be equally as beautiful.
Where to anchor?
There are two ports on Vis island - in Vis town and Komiža. The Vis port boasts 40 berths alongside the town quay, with around 30 berths in Kut, part of Vis town. The Komiža port has room for about 30 boats up to 25 meters in length, though it does get busy due to local fishing boats. Since these ports are located in the largest towns on the island, you can find souvenir shops, restaurants, cafes, and supermarkets to stock up on whatever you may need.
Where Vis island truly shines is in its anchorages. Stončica on the northeast tip of the island provides good protection in all but bura winds, while Milna is used as shelter from bura. Budikovac (which has a fabulous family-run restaurant), Srebrna, and Slatine are also favorites.
Where to eat & drink?
Vis island is a haven for Dalmatian cuisine, where simple ingredients create savory specialties. One delight you must try when visiting Vis is Komiška pogača, or pie from Komiža that uses anchovies and onions atop a tomato pizza-like base. But you get to indulge in so much more.
Pojada: Pojada is a traditional tavern near the Kut port that is a go-to for boaters on Vis. Honoring a modern take on local cuisine, Pojoda offers fresh fish, squid stew, octopus fritters, and pasta to ensure there is something everyone in your group will enjoy.
Roki’s: This authentic restaurant is tucked away from Vis town, surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. Serving their own Plavac and Vugava wines, Roki’s is famous for peka dishes (which must be reserved in advance) and various seafood specialties in a natural yet family-style ambiance.
Villa Kaliopa: Located in a romantic 16th-century Mediterranean garden not far from Kut, Kaliopa is known for an ever-changing menu of Dalmatian dishes, where palm trees and bamboo surround diners for a fairytale dining experience.
Fabrika: And if you’re in Komiža? Fabrika offers more modern cuisine, from healthy breakfast to burgers, grilled cheese sandwiches, wok dishes, and more. You can also visit the concept store to shop for Croatian-made souvenirs!
Budikovac: Boaters love Budikovac as one of the most popular spots in the area to moor for lunch. This family-run operation takes pride in homegrown wine, veggies, chicken, and turkey, with dazzling sea views from the terrace. The owner Andro prefers guests eat without a menu, though you can expect fish and lobster prepared the Dalmatian way.
And if you’re looking for something a bit… stronger?
Located in Vis town, Frutarija offers classic cocktails and mocktails with a stunning view of the waterfront. Lola is another go-to secret garden locale in Vis town where you can also enjoy tapas and modern main courses.
And while it may have risen to fame recently thanks to summer Yacht Week parties, if you’d like a cocktail with a view in a British garrisoned fortress from 200 years ago, you’ll want to head to Fort George.
Where to beach?
Stiniva: Located west of Mala Travna bay, Stiniva is undoubtedly the most popular beach on the island, likely due to winning the best beach in Europe back in 2016. The actual beach part of Stiniva is closed in by two cliffs, just 4 meters apart at its narrowest point. Many yachts like to anchor and swim to the beach, which also has a small cafe.
Stončica: Just outside of Vis town is the sandy Stončica. Surrounded by thick vegetation offering a good amount of shade, Stončica is also shallow some 30 meters from the shore, meaning it is foolproof for a family outing. You can even find a snack bar and some restaurants in the area.
Smokova: Not far from Stončica is Smokova, another sandy and natural beach which is uber famous for the remains of a World War 11 aircraft wing located just two meters from the shore!
Activities
Blue Cave: We already filled you in on the Blue Cave experience, and while it may seem like the most touristy thing to do on the island (it is), it’s worth a visit. The wait to enter the cave will likely be longer than your experience inside the cave (around 10-15 minutes), and no, swimming is not allowed. Still, it is a masterpiece of Mother Nature and one of the top experiences on your Croatian sailing holiday.
Wineries: Winemakers have thrived on Vis since the Greeks roamed the island, with Vugava and Plavac being the trademark grapes of Vis. While there are a handful of local wineries to explore on the island, we suggest the unique Lipanović, with its cellar housed in a Yugoslav military tunnel. Another must-visit is Aerodrom Gostionica, a no-frills wine house located on a former military airstrip. They also serve up Dalmatian snacks and the famous Komiža pie!
Senjanović Vineyard is also just a 30-minute walk from the famous Stončica Bay. The legendary tavern is run by three brothers, offering stellar views and a selection of their local wines.
Take a military tour: We have already mentioned that Vis abounds in military history, all of which you can explore on a guided tour. A WWII submarine tunnel, bunker, atomic shelter, airport, a radar station, and more is uncovered on an off-road tour, making it a great half-day escape.
Check out the views from Hum: Hum is the highest point on Vis (587 meters) which you can visit by car or foot thanks to marked trails. The peak rewards with breathtaking views of the Adriatic and a small 15th-century church!
Rent a Vespa: With less than 40 km of main roads, Vis is easy to navigate by scooter. A great way to explore the island, there are many Vespa and scooter rental options in Vis and Komiža.